Devoted to the trails and towns of Western North Carolina, a writer makes an autumn pilgrimage and finds communities profoundly changed and profoundly the same.

Helene devastated towns in western North Carolina. Three weeks later, dozens of people are missing and thousands are without power. Volunteers, donations and search and rescue teams have poured in.

Police in Asheville, North Carolina, arrested two men they said who were caught stealing in flood-affected areas after Helene—one who stole from Duke Energy.